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Getting the survey right.
Firstly, do NOT attempt a Bow or Bay window yourself unless you are 100% confident, as you might easily find yourself out of your depth, unless you are very proficient.
General hints and tips follow, as a full surveyor's instruction manual would be a very thick book.
The easiest mistake a window fitting 'newbie' might conceivably make is in trying too hard to get a nice super snug fit when measuring, and the precision engineer can so easily be his own worst enemy! Brickwork is so often uneven, the opening can also be out of square, or even vary in size top to bottom or side to side. Also, in manufacture there is an acceptable tolerance, and you could very easily that find your new windows come up a couple of mm or more bigger (or smaller) than you asked for. So, measure to the narrowest point, then deduct 10mm gap outdoors brick to brick, width and height, double check against inside plaster sizes = 20mm to 30 mm outside over inside measurements is usually about right, but not often much more. Height is to include the projecting cill, which is normally supplied separate to the frame and is usually 30mm high. Remember: "measure twice, cut once". Measure at 3 separate points in width, and at 3 separate points height and then use the narrowest measurements as your ordering sizes.
Cast your eye over the wall or brickwork above the old frames and look for any cracks and seek profession advice if you are concerned that something might not be right.
Exterior cills are available in front to back standard sizes of:
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A.
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85mm, in the trade called 'stub' - and usually only used on top of creasing tiles and on top of old stone cills, or on top of bricks on the slant, etc.
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B.
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150mm (6") - as is standard and the most often used.
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C.
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180mm (extra deep) for if you are rendered, or even rendered over render, or for if the frame is set back from the front of the face by an uncommonly large amount.
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You should always measure in millimetres (mm) for the glazing trade. There are 1000 mm to the Metre, and a Metre is just over a yard, by about 3 inches. One mm is less than a sixteenth of an inch, so incredible accuracy is achieved using metric instead of imperial measurements.
1 inch is 25.4 mm, so to get to millimetres from inches, just multiply your inches measurements by 25.4. Avoid using Centimetres (there are 10 mm to a cm), as this often confuses. The home improvements industry in general almost always uses mm because the problem of inches being misread, for example: 41" could so easily be misread as 4'1" with a speck of dirt in the wrong place! In the glazing industry it is widely accepted that the width of a frame or object is always stated before the height to avoid any possible confusion over which is which. If your property is rendered then cut this back to reveal the brick, but do make certain that the frame does not get 'lost', better to make frame size slack and foam fill any gap.
Normal sizing for distances for the horizontal and vertical bars in window frames are 400 mm for transoms, and 600 mm mullions, although you may specify whatever transom drop and mullioned distance you want.
Best tip:
Get your intended supplier to do the survey, because the cost will likely be reasonable, and it just could prove to be your finest investment because:
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1.
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Measurements and specs will be all their responsibility.
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2.
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Extras, trims etc. necessary to complete the job properly can be specified, and stated as being included in the agreed price.
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3.
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Building regs. Gas regs. Fire escapes, safety glass in critical locations, etc. should all be taken into account and manufactured and supplied accordingly.
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4.
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General advice tips and hints, over a cup of tea of course, and specific advice peculiar to your property could prove to be a real time saver and just possibly a godsend.
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Whatever you do, make sure you go to a specialist diy supplier, and avoid like the plague the 'we do everything' superstores. Just imagine even a small part missing and the nightmare of queuing up at customer services only to find yourself trying to explain your problem to some spotty youngster who gives you a blank stare before getting on the P.A. for a senior, by way of dropping a hot potato and calling in the reinforcements, 'nuff said!
Of course you will need all the right tools to do a proper job, and don't underestimate all the bits and pieces that could possibly make you go over budget. This is one reason we advocate that you should if possible get your intended supplier to do the survey. He can easily throw in so many extras, which he buys in at bulk trade prices, for so much less that you can buy for.
DIY Double Glazing - Recommended Suppliers:
UPVC Doors Online
All our UPVC doors are manufactured direct from the factory floor straight to your home. Each door is fitted with a 6 point high security lock, double glazing, toughened glass and reinforced frames, ensuring your home is secure, and don't forget our 10 year guarantee for complete peace of mind.
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